Cressida's Adventure 'Round the World

2 Years Around the World, an Overview

2009-06-13T05:45:00.000-07:00

I return to the States soon, can't say how soon because Mom and Dad still don't know. It is soon enough though that I began writing a summery of how I feel as things come to a close. I was blaming my recent 10 days of monastic silence for my inability to express how much this trip has meant to me. Really though, to sum it up, in a witty interesting way, how a trip around the world - but more sincerely through my heart - has changed my own little world, is completely impossible. I'm going to continue to try. Hopefully, at Bottle Beach (see best beaches bellow) I will find some inspiration. For now though, on my 2 year anniversary, all I leave you with are some figures that mean more to me than you. I won't be offended if you skip it. It will leave us something to talk about when I return shortly :)

:::NUMBERS::: (year1/year2)
# of LP's: 8
# of wounds gone septic: 4 (always thinking of Alan, blek)
journals filled: 4 1/2
continents: 5
countries: 28
largest time zone gap: 18 hours
longest train journey: 3 days, GOA --> DEHLI
Overnight treks: 9
hospital visits: 5 (4/1)
friends to visit: 12
haircuts: 3
CD's burned: 25-30
passport stamps: 95 (46/49)
bus rides: 206 (107/99)
boat journies: 84 (52/32)
plane flights: 26
dancing nights: 52 (39/13)
toilets sat on: 83 (43/40) Year 2...mostly squat but many more Guesthouses where I was more inclined to relax :)
bottles of wine consumed: 257 (191/66)
longest period w/o showering: 4 days

::: EXTREMES :::
Best treks: Cerro Llao Llao, Bariloche, Argentina/Helambu-Langtang, Nepal
Best Sunsets: Serengetti/Jaisalmer Desert/ Helambu trek over the clouds
Best Sunrises: all 10 @ Lucknow Vipassana Centre after already meditating 2 hours- music, mist, love/ Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia
Best Book: Shantaram by David Gregory Roberts/ Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
Most $$$: England
Least $$$: Nepal

Best Big Cities: Buenos Aires, Kathmandu, Madrid
Worst Big Cities: Lima, Agra
Best Little Places: Shangri-la, Bariloche (too many)

Best Star Gazing: Annapurna Sanctuary Trek, Zambia
Best Beaches: Vilanculos, Mozambique/ Bottle Beach, Thailand (where I am now!)
Best smiles: Tibetans and Thais
Favourite Animal: elephant
new fear: spiders
Best music: British
Worst Music: Thai Pop
Most overplayed music WorldWide: Bob Marley
Craziest Parties: Spain, Laos, Goa
Most Mellow: Nepal
Best Surprise: Bolivia, Romania, Zambia
Biggest Let Down: Peru
Best (and only) work experience: Barmaid at Baobob's Beach
Worst toilet: Bulongshon, China...can still see the maggots
Buddhist precept broke the most: KILLING, I am lethal when it comes to Mozzy Murder

Hottest Local: Jaisalmer, India
Coldest: Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia/ ABC Trek, Nepal

Best Food: Greece, China, India, Natasha's Parents
Worst Food: Hungary (oh the irony)
Best Wine: Mendoza, Argentina
Best Beer outside of Europe: BeerLao, Breweries in Bariloche
Best Pastries: Greece
Best Western Food outside of the West: Kathmandu, OR2K Israeli food
Best Cheese: South Africa
Worst Cheese: India, paneer, blek

:::COUNTRIES VISITED:::

Mexico
Argentina
Bolivia
Peru
Uruguay
Brazil
England
Spain
Germany
Hungary
Austria
Romania
Greece
Kenya
Tanzania
Malawi
Zambia
Botswana
Namibia
S. Africa
Mozambique
India
Nepal
Thailand
Cambodia
Laos
China
Indonesia

Places Added to my Must-See List:
Israel
Mongolia
Tibet
Iran
Egypt
Ireland
Colombia
Russia
Cuba
Western Africa
New Zealand

Places I will definitely return to:
Argentina
Brazil
England
Spain
Greece
China
India
Nepal

Players and Participants (# of visits):
Natasha 6X
Jess 2X
Tim 2X
Lynne 2X
Kristen
Eve
Mom and Dad
Brooke and Leann
Paige
Olly G
Beth
and Hernan

The MVP going to Natasha, having visited one another 6 times, not including the 6 weeks we traveled together in Bolivia and Argentina.
Natasha Chatur:
travel style: wherever, whenever
Dance style: Reggaeton
Fashion style: better than mine
Life style: RockandRoll

I could continue to spout off my highs and lows of this adventure in volumes. I have already done so in my journals. I have taken thousands of photos to document landscapes and architecture and toilets. It is the people who I have met though, that need no documentation, they are guarded safely in my heart. The people are more beautiful than any sand dune, any coral reef, any Patagonian glacier. They are the lovely, amazing people I've met and who have let me into their lives that have made this trip what it is too me, literally: a dream come true. Thank you so much.

2009-01-06T05:54:00.000-08:00

"The simple and astonishing truth about India and Indian people is that when you go there, and deal with them, your heart always guides you more than your head. There's nowhere else in the world where that's quite true." - Gregory David Roberts

This is not traveling. I'm on holiday. Goa is a holiday- it is a release from whatever it is you need to free yourself from. A release from the travels of India: a beautiful coastline full of sunbeds and palm trees, a release from the rumblings in your stomach: menus full of western, eastern and even Indian cuisine, a release from that pain in your neck or gut in your abdominal: massages and yoga to the rescue!!

I'm not going to lie - it feels like I'm cheating. If feels a little too easy in Goa. Of course I went to the Mexican restaurant 2X, I've been craving it since LA. It also means a 40 Rupee samosa when you can find it (not many tourists want street food) knowing you can get them on the train for 5 rupees each (and for 2X as much grease!). I also won't be lying when I say I love it here. Mango juice in pop glasses, live music almost every night, fireworks, cows wandering the beaches, bamboo huts and fresh seafood daily. Who wouldn't want to stay longer, I ask myself as my 6 month visa runs out next week. After talking to a few people about my experiences in the north, I fear I might have frightened them away from the subcontinent forever. This is a grave mistake!!

My 2 month stint in Nepal, separating and soothing my 2 different experiences in India, gave me the break I needed to feel my way through India, instead of think my way. "Sometimes, in India, you have to surrender before you let yourself win." And so I did. Or maybe I was now without expectations. Being the country most heavily looked forward to has it's burdens and maybe I was looking for the wrong things. By far the most rewarding and challenging country, it has stolen a special place in my heart. Not that I haven't been reserving a spot for it. Anticipating this wondrous and spicy land for years, it was difficult at first. I was trying hard to create that magic that, of course, only arrives after hope is abandoned.

And so I sit here, sipping my espresso, sighing that sigh only a tourist village can provide knowing that the "real" India is a 5 minutes walk where tomorrow I will catch 2 buses to Anjuna for the Wed market. A 2 hr journey, I know, I took it from the train station yesterday in a moment where I thanked at least 8 ppl for their kindness before collapsing off the bus. You see, I fainted on the bus yesterday night. Packed in like sardines, standing, there was no need to hold on to the bars because there was no room to fall. Or so I thought. Sweating a waterfall I'd never sweat in my life, I thought it was strange even if we were that packed, it wasn't that warm. The last thing I remember before the man asked, "My friend?! My dear Friend?! Are you OK Madam??" was me telling him, "I'm very sorry sir, I think I'm going to faint" and then falling to his knees. With more compassion than I've ever felt from a group of people; a group of people that 20 minutes before were so concerned with their standing room (kicking, shoving, shouting and scratching) had turned their concern to a stranger. I was offered a bottle of water, a woman to hold my bags, a man to guard my backpack--taken off my shoulders by another man, an elderly woman to offer me her entire frame to lean upon and a man, when noticing the younger man taking advantage of my closed eyes and trying to feel for my sides, shoved so violently the molester from the moving bus and offered me his seat. This is the India I've fallen in love with. This is the India I was hoping for.

I'm reading a memoir of a man who escaped an Australian prison and fled to Bombay (Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts). In a passage I read yesterday, a group of mafia dons were describing suffering and how it is impossible to know happiness without it. They are each others equals and opposites. It made me think, in the last 5 years, I've gone from suffering the most I have in my short life....to being the happiest. This makes me excited for the future and all of the unimaginable possibilities it possesses. It also elates me that it is in India, where I feel I have begun to perfect my skills for enjoying the simple beauty of the present.

Enough now! See what this place has done to me?! Off to Thailand now to see what other adventures life wants to throw at me...well food really. I'm all about the food.

Happy 2009, wishing you all
Love and Laughter;
Health and Happiness

A Nepali Thanksgiving

2008-11-29T20:37:00.000-08:00

I've just spent 25 days on the trekking trails of the Nepali Himalaya. One in the Annapurna Region with Teo getting lost in conversation, over streams and under towering peaks and creaking glaciars. The second with Lynne laughing over our "guide/porter" and exchanging travel stories while walking next to yak herds in the Helambu/Langtang region. Both heart-breakingly beautiful in their own right.

The connections and laughs with friends (wondering if we would find out our new president on the trail/ "Are you a yak?" "I think so.") were just as memorable as the stunning scenery. I was so excited to be here and see what my parents had seen 30yrs ago that I recruited these 2 before I'd left the US, Teo even a few years before that! Even with such great company on the trail, there was a lot of down time to contemplate our circumstances. Or maybe we just stopped talking on the uphills, being too winded :) Something I thought a lot about was just how much I have to be thankful for.

I'm thankful for all the friends, old and new, who have made this experience so beautiful.

I'm thankful for the mental and physical health that have allowed me to continue so strongly.

I'm thankful for finding meditation when my energy levels needed a boost and coming away with an added perk: the realization that I'm in charge of my own happiness and then actualizing it.

I'm thankful for the people who have loved me and have taught me how to love and be loved :)

I'm thankful for Obama winning the presidency!!

I'm thankful for the promise of a beautiful future while enjoying an even more stunning present.

I'm thankful for baby wipes and q-tips.

I'm thankful for my dodgy New Balances holding up for 3 1/2 weeks after my boots missed their flight across a few continents and friends who lend their down sleeping bags!!

I'm thankful you are in my life :)

Happy Thanksgiving from Kathmandu. Namaste

Holy Cow!

2008-10-06T06:29:00.000-07:00

Incredible India:
Vibrant, Spicy, Holy & Stinky

The destination I've had my eye on for so long that the Lonely Planet I carry looks like a collector's addition, the new one having come out last year.

After postponing my flight from Africa, I was ready to be here. I was also relieved and excited when my friend Olly, whom I'd met on Fanny, decided he needed some extra spice before starting his career.

Traversing the streets that look like they haven't changed for centuries we set out to collect experiences and this is what we came up with:

Together we:
-sweat out kilos of weight (who decided women should cover up from head to toe in the hottest country on the planet)
-battled fierce touts (& children who clung to our legs as they sat on our feet)
-climbed unsurpassed stairs (forget temples, they put us on the seventh floor!)
-got in numerous fights with strangers (over the price of a rickshaw)
-were violently stoned and molested (by a pack of 8 year olds when we became lost)
-slept 7 nights without paying (6 night trains or buses, 1 room was too hot to justify)
-spent 3 days in the Thar Desert with our trusted steeds (or camels)
-won numerous golden tickets!! (all Cadbury's are wrapped in Willy Wonka-esque foil)
-bathed in the holy Ganga (the shower pumped water straight from the river leaving what looked like a sand dune)
-visited the greatest monument to love (the Taj Majal)
-learned how to feed a nation (or the tiny Indian family who taught us how to cook. Don't worry Mrs. Chatur, they've got nothing on you!)
-found the cutest fixer-upper should we move to India (a dilapidated monsoon palace in Udaipur...waiting for them to put it on the market)
-celebrated 10 days dancing, singing and dunking statues of an elephant-man-god in lakes (self-explanatory)
-learned that Cressida is the better cards player of the two (thank you very much)
-and were successful in avoiding Delhi Belly for 3 whole weeks (to have our smug smiles wiped straight off our faces for the disastrous and comical last week).

To put it simply, Olly and I had a blast trying to figure out one of the most alive and chaotic places I've ever known.

Thanks Olly for helping test out the waters, even if they made you sick, and making all of the awkward, uncomfortable, delicious and colourful experiences truly laughable and beautiful.

(now what about that Stella?)

************************************************************************

And then I left the country without crossing any borders. Dharamsala, in the foothills of the Himalaya is the home of the 14th Dalai Lama and many Tibetan refugees and exiles. Atop a mtn and amongst the clouds--it is the most peaceful and calming place I've been on this trip. Perfect after a month in India! As I mentioned before, I feel that something powerful led me to this place and just in time to hear His Holiness speak.

The teachings were ethereal. Sitting in a sea of red-clothed monks, chanting mantras and prostrating to His Holiness--I've never felt so much love and compassion is a room full of strangers. This is saying a lot considering that the group sponsoring the teaching were from Taiwan, making the Chinese over 40% of the attendees. The very same people responsible for the violent over-taking of Tibet that took over 1.2 million lives were invited to India to learn about love. The Dalai Lama welcomed them, his "enemies" reminding everyone how we were family and even telling a couple of communist jokes.

Surreal and moving it's difficult to say how this experience might influence my life and personal relationships for years to come. I walk away feeling very lucky and light.

There are many lessons I learned during the teachings, the simplest and most important being the foundation of Buddhism:
Try your hardest to help others.
If you cannot help others, then do not harm them.

I leave Dharamsala now, knowing it's too soon but another once in a lifetime opportunity awaits. I've been accepted to study Vipassana Meditation in Lucknow for a 10 day intensive course: no speaking or eye contact and at least 10 hours of daily concentrated meditation, starting at 4AM. I'll let you know at what degree of sanity I'll reemerge into the world!

Love you all, as always.

A Mozambique Backtrack

2008-10-06T06:27:00.000-07:00

I feel I owe it to my amazing experience in Mozambique to backtrack and let some people know what exactly happened after the tour ended in Africa and life began.

My accomplice: Beth
Our goals during our couple of months roadtripping S. Africa and Mozambique:
1) detox, the lovely tour did a toll on us and our poor bodies: enough with the bad food and good wine.
2) exercise
3)find amazing jobs as barmaids on some idyllic beach on Mozambique's infamous coast.

We were successful in all 3. Our days on the perfect beaches of Vilanculos were as follows:
8 or 9am-wake up to free coffee and tea and the breakfast included in our wage
10 or 11am head to our spot on the beach behind the shipwrecked fishing boat, taking turns floating and meditating, reading and sleeping
2pm shower if there was water that day, eat an early lunch if not
3pm-->11-1am quench the thirst of many tourists and locals (2M, Manica, Laurentina, Savannah and who could forget Tipo Tinto!) earning a whopping 25 cents/hr.

It must have been a pretty lush existence if we were complaining that all of the other travelers had such cool horror stories on public transportation when our were so relaxed and easy. We even sat shot gun one journey because the back was full of Amarula and red wine. You've got to be kidding me! We did get what we asked for though when after politely debating the price of one journey, the driver decided to give us a scare and drive off with out bags, just far enough that we screamed and hollered and hung from the windows. Awesome story and awesome bruise, check check.

We actually had the conversation on one particular wine and cheese night, what was the perfect adjective for paradise. After much discussion on linguistics from an international crowd, we decided that yes, Vilanculos was very paradidicall or paradiceal, however you prefer.

We were living in Paradise AND I got a best friend out of it!! :)
Love you Beth

Namaste

2008-09-30T05:30:00.000-07:00

There is no self.

This is what I learned this morning from my first teaching from the Dalai Lama himself!

"There is no other place I want to be." Not knowing that such a momentous occasion was happening in Dharamsala, there was really only the one place I wanted to be. Staying in Rishikesh, a holy Hindu place, I was confident I'd be taking a meditation course there. My mind changed after learning these three pieces of information: 1) I just read a book inviting the reader to say yes to more opportunities as they arise. The author also finds himself interviewing some Buddhist monk and I was reminded how much Buddhism has intrigued me since I read Herman Hesse's Siddhartha in 9th grade. 2) I wanted to pick up a specialized yoga tool for my Africa tent-mate, Alethea, that she lost while in Zambia. I thought the place was Rishikesh, it was actually Dharamsala. 3) My best bud Jess just informed me that she was starting Buddhism classes in San Francisco.

So I woke up on the morning of my sixth day of Montezuma's Belly (what you get when you eat Mexican food in India) and decided, instead of taking the 1 hr bus ride back to Rishikesh, I'd take the 15 hr bus ride to Dharamsala. And it was worth it. After an excruciatingly long journey where every single person stared ruthlessly even jumping off their bus to board mine and take my photo, arriving at 4AM, my least favourite time to arrive in a place while traveling sola, a friendly Tibetan woman offered to share a cab and then walked me to my front door. Thanks friendly Tibetan woman, I was not in the spirits to get lost!!

I woke up around midday, not having slept on the bus, had a late lunch where I met Andrea, a German teacher here. Casually, she asked me if I was attending the teachings tomorrow. "What teachings?" you ask. Just those meditation teachings by His Holiness himself. He only teaches to the public 4X a year and because of his fragile health, he will only be conducting one next year! What a freaking amazing opportunity. I feel like many circumstances and opportunities I have said yes to have led me specifically to this place. AND Andrea even knew what was up with my stomach. (Olly, maybe if you are still ill, check out Giardiasis--it's in the LP!)

I invited Ol to India => he said yes => we ended up seeing loads in a short amount of time allowing us to hang out with our angry stomachs in Rishikesh, earlier than I had planned for myself => things started happening to push me out of Rishikesh => It's like Andrea said: "Taking Buddhism lessons from the Dalai Lama is like taking Catholicism classes from the Pope." My response "That's exactly what it's like." Big smiles for all :)

What I learned during my first day (of 5):
From Ignorance we gain Knowledge, from Knowledge we gain Wisdom, From Wisdom we gain Compassion and from Compassion we gain Love (or enlightenment).

Well, this, in so many words!! Cheers to me being in my first step: Ignorance!! I feel like I've mastered it well...

His Holiness has actually got a pretty great sense of humor. At least, that's what I can tell from the laughing Tibetan monks all around me! Jokes don't exactly translate....

High: the Spanish dude in front of me lending me his jacket to sit on the hard, cold temple floor.
Low: the butter tea that they handed out this morning was exactly that, more butter than tea though. Not too great for my suffering stomach!

More Incredible India details to come....Much Love to all and another Thanks to Olly for making another country truly special. (now please send me my Stella.)

"Gonna do the things we never haaaaaaad"

2008-07-10T03:18:00.000-07:00

How do I describe the experience of a lifetime?
---Easily, I tell you to go look at the photos!

I am in Cape Town now. The last of the 23 overlanders who have all returned home or continued their journeys. These 23 beautiful adventurers who have become a family on what was our home: Fanny, the big, yellow truck that brought us from Nairobi, Kenya to Cape Town, South Africa. These people (mostly English and mostly under 22) who brought such enthusiasm and passion, made my experience in Africa as special as it was. So a thousand thanks to Meg & Will, Beth, Ollie C, Alethea, V, Ed, Add, Joe, Tom, Nicky, Cath & Mike, Alan, Javiera, Jason, Chell & Sarah, Jo, Charlie, Ben and Olly G. And a big applause to Stu, our 'wicked' driver and Princess Kristy, our tour leader.

My parents traveled to Kenya and Tanzania over 30 years ago and I'm confidant that Africa is the only place that I thought Pete might have ever visited me. So as I stuck my head out from the roof of our Range Rover in Serengeti, and we sped looking for the last of our Big 5 sightings, the leopard, it is no wonder that I thought my trip had finally begun. Being on Fanny and part of a tour let me relax and live in the present. I no longer needed to think of the next step or plan in advance. Everything I enjoyed was to the fullest because I was living inside every moment. Looking back, it's funny to me how anxious and hesitant I was about any kind of group travel-thinking independent travel was the only way to go and worried that I couldn't back out if I wanted to. I was wrong.

It is completely impossible to describe all of the crazy and amazing experiences I've collected while in Africa. According to country, here is a short list of the highlights:

Tanzania:seeing 4/5 Big 5 in Ngorongoro Crater in this order: elephant, buffalo, lion, black rhino, dancing on the beach (and tables) in Zanzibar, the first night at Snake Park where we celebrated my Birthday 4 days late (and no I wasn't sick), staying up all night at Macardi Beach, volleyball, sunset and watching shooting stars in Serengeti, DB, our 1st booze cruise, being called Mzungu's (white people), Kilimanjaro Beer

Malawi: Lake Malawi in general, dancing with kids at local dinner, hiking up to Livingstonia (and hitching back--shhh), crazy t-shirt night (HOOTERS), larium dreams, NOT roasting the pig at Kande Beach, bush camping and the song game (one love, one heart), the children chasing Fanny as we drove, leaving the aggressive touts in Tanzania for the friendly faces in Malawi

Zambia: S. Luanga National Park, night game drive and all of the stars, the first leopard spotting, elephants invading our campsite at Flatdogs, flying with Pete during the world's 2nd highest bungee jump, booze cruise #2, house boat on Lake Kariba: twirling with Ollie C, spelling with our bodies, watching the stars with Add, coming in 1st (alright 4th) during Trivia Night, keeping Stu up all night ;), swapping tents and watching all the confused campers crawl into the wrong tent

Botswana: Canoe ride through Okavango Delta, Olly's Birthday, dancing around the fire doing the Kudu dance and listening to stories told in the click language, flying over the Okavango Delta (we were so low, there was grass on our landing wheels!)

Namibia: Etosha National Park: proper leopard spotting, the flood lit watering holes with Olly the first night and V the second, desert tour in the Namib, skydiving, worlds best toilets bush camping and our Christmas in June, climbing to the top of Spitzkoppe and then sleeping under the stars, playing Snow White in Nicky's pantomime "Snow white and the Dirty Dwarfs", the love shack in Swakopmund, 75km/hr sand boarding, eating ostrich, kudu and gemsbock--delicious!

South Africa: having the piss taken out of Americans by Joe and Ben for the entire 6hr drive day, wine tasting, the 5 minutes on Table Mtn. before it started to hail, Cupcakes on Long St., Chinese food night in the guesthouse (Thanks Lovelies) and learning how to cook apple crumble!

Trip Highlights: Any and all upgrades or tent sharing ;), volleyball, tent time with Alethea, dancing with Ben while we cooked and cleaned, picking up some ridiculous English slang (zeb-ra not zee-bra, I get it!), snuggling in Fanny and staring out the window listening to a particular i-pod.

We slept in tents named after African beers (Hansa, you rock), took cold showers, cooked delicious meals for 25-save the 2 chili nights, took malaria tablets, had daily bowel movement conversations (thanks nurse Beth), applied and reapplied moisturizers, helped to peel each others skin and wounds, laughed til we cried, jumped off things together and shared our best and not-quite-best moments together.

I'm so thankful for this gorgeous experience with these colorful people and that I couldn't postpone it as I had wished. Thanks to Stu on his last overland trip and to Kristy for telling us we were her best group. Thanks to the person who made this trip magical :) ...Truly Unforgettable....

"If you could change one thing about this trip...?"
"I wouldn't."

1 Year Abroad!

2008-06-24T08:14:00.000-07:00

I have now been out of the United States for over one year! I celebrated my anniversary in Maun, Botswana after a night bush camping in the Okavanga Delta along with Olly, another overlander, who was celebrating his 23rd birthday on the 14th!

I've been trying to put into words just how beautiful my African experience has been and have cannot find words sufficient enough. Just know, as I was standing on the seat of the Land Rover in Serengeti National Park, just 8 short weeks ago, I felt as if my trip was finally starting. I was finally alive and in the moment and this is an emotion that has not left me since!

For now, I write from Cape Town, South Africa after a morning of hail and rain on top of Table Mountain. I know it's winter but isn't this Africa as well?!?

The Number Game:

Continents visited: 3
Countries visited: 21
Friends to join me: 9
languages spoken: 14
Easter's celebrated: 2 (Spain and Greece)
Visits to Hospital: 4, all in the same week
haircuts: 1
journals filled: 1 1/2
cd's burned: 18
new passport stamps: 46
bus rides: 107
boat journeys: 52
plane departures: 14
dancing nights: 39 (needs improvement)
toilets sat on: 43
bottles of wine consumed (with help): 191 !!!
longest train journey: Bucharest to Thessaloniki 27 hours
longest period w/o showering: 4

Extremes:
Best Surprise: Bolivia
Best food: Greece
MVP: Natasha
Best Trek: Cerro Llao Llao, BAricloche, Argentina
Best Sunset: Serengetti
Best Sunrise: Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia
Favourite African PARK: South Luanga National Park, Zambia
Best Capital City: Vienna, Austria
Worst Capital City: Lima Peru
most lush accomodation: Contintenal, Athens, Greece
Strangest Accomodation: Ferry Port, Corfy Town, COrfu, Greece
Best book read: Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
Best Beach: Nguri, Zanzibar, Tanzania
Best Coctail: Fernet and Cola
Worst bus journey: Uyuni ---> La Paz Bolivia tied with
BAriloche---->Buenos Aires, the 3rd time, when all was stolen
best journey: Black River, Amazonas, Brazil
most fun in a Castle: Rasnov, Romania with Dracula and David
Favourite Folkloric Pena: El Jarro, Bariloche, Argentina
Most Exciting Futbol Game: River vs. Boca
highest altitude: 5000m Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia
Favourite African animal: elephant
best ice cream: Jauja, Bariloche, Argentina
Most $$$: England
Least $$$ Bolivia
Fav African Beer: Hansa ---biased, the name of my tent as well (real answer: Kilimanjaro)

These are just to name a few ;)

You might have figured out that the overland tour is over now that I am in Cape Town. There will be photos and updates on the continent that has stolen my heart to come shortly. For now, I need to mention that I am not on my flight to Mumbai, India right now because I have decided to stay in Southern Africa for 2 more months. The visa was going to take longer than I had anticipated so I will road trip through South Africa and Mozambique with Beth and Althea, 2 beautiful ladies I met while on Fanny, the big yellow truck I called home for the past 8 weeks :)

Thank you to all for the support during my first year abroad! Love and miss you all:)

African Itinerary 2008

2008-04-30T12:32:00.000-07:00

For those interested in knowing where I will be (tentively) for my 6 weeks in Africa, here is the schedule. Not to worry, everthing in Zimbabwe is being relocated to Zambia. :)

There are many dates and anniversaries I will be missing but I would like to say Happy Mother's Day, 29th Anniversary to M&P and Happy Father's Day...in chronological order ;)

Flight to Nairobi from Athens, the 8th of May

(May 10-13)Days 1 - 4 Our Kenya to South Africa trip begins! We depart Nairobi early morning to begin our Africa overland travel experience and immediately find ourselves in hot savannah grasslands, with thorn trees and acacia providing the only shade. We usually see zebra and giraffe as we head south and cross the border to Tanzania. From the town of Arusha we use a local Tanzania travel safari company to guide us through Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Parks. On the crater floor you can spend the day viewing the abundant wildlife including Elephant, Lion, Cheetah, White Rhino, Buffalo, Hippo, Antelope, Crocodile and Pink Flamingos. From here you can choose to go into the Serengeti where vast herds of Wildebeest roam the plains. For those who decide to view Ngorongoro only, there is a free day to visit a local Maasai Village to learn about there culture and way of life.

(May 14-18)-Days 5 - 9 It's a one-day drive to Dar Es Salaam, a must-see on this Tanzania travel leg. We pass through a number of small towns and villages along the way and, if we are lucky, we may see the towering peak of Mt Kilimanjaro. We camp for about 4 nights in a campsite on a beautiful Indian Ocean beach. From here most people take the ferry out to Zanzibar for the full four days and venture into the narrow bustling streets of StoneTown and its exotic spice markets, old slave forts and dungeons. There is also time to indulge yourself on Zanzibar's famous white beaches before returning to Dar Es Salaam.

(may 19-21)Days 10 - 12 After meeting the Zanzibar ferry, the next leg of our Kenya to South Africa trip begins. We continue our Africa overland travel through the interesting and often mountainous hinterland for which the country is renowned. In the afternoon, after negotiating some appalling roads and 'in God We Trust' drivers we pass through the peaceful Mikumi National Park. We usually see here Elephant, Giraffe, Zebra and Antelope from the roadside. Passing rivers and small waterfalls, our Tanziania travel leg ends as we enter Malawi, dominated by its huge fresh water lake.

(may 22-16)Days 13 - 17 We spend 2 days at a small laid back camp site on the edge of the lake. We follow the lake shore south and spend a further 2 or 3 nights on one of the campsites equipped for water sports. Here you can windsurf, scuba dive, etc. If you are inclined to just relax during your Africa overland travel experience, there is no better place than the shores of Lake Malawi. Here you have the opportunity to go off for a couple of days and stay in one of the many nearby villages, or visit a school or one of the craft markets where artisans produce some interesting wooden furniture and carvings. From here we continue our Kenya to South Africa trip on to Blantyre in the south of the country where we stop for two nights. Here we organise our Mozambique visas and possibly visit the local brewery - a highlight on any of our backpacker trips to Africa!

(May 27-29)Days 18 - 20 From Blantyre we cross into Mozambique and head for Zimbabwe. We follow the infamous 'Tete Corridor' which was well known in the days of Mozambque's long running civil war as the 'Gun Run'. Thankfully these days things are a lot different! We enter Zimbabwe and travel to Harare, the capital, for a couple of days.

(May 30-June 1)Days 21 - 23 From Harare we head south to Gweru and a privately run horse and game ranch where you can go game viewing on elephant and horseback or perhaps on a walking safari with young lion cubs!

(June 2-June 4)Days 24 - 26 From Gweru we travel to the Great Zimbabwe Ruins which was once the greatest medieval city in Sub Saharan Africa and where the name 'Zimbabwe' is derived, literally meaning 'house of stone'. Next we enter Matabeleland and the town of Bulawayo.

(June 5-June6)Days 27 - 28 Here you have the option of leaving the truck for a day and a night and using a local safari company to venture into Motobo National Park, where on foot, escorted by an armed ranger, you should see the elusive Black Rhino amongst hordes of other game. There is also the opportunity to visit Cecil Rhodes grave and Ancient Rock Paintings before catching an old style sleeper train (if available) to rejoin the truck at one of the adventure playgrounds of the world - Victoria Falls.

(June 7- June 11)Days 29 - 32 For some Mosi oa Tunya - 'The Smoke That Thunders' is the highlight of their Africa overland travel trip. When you arrive it is a surprise to discover the enormity of Victoria Falls. One mile wide and hurling over 5 million cubic metres of water a minute into the Zambezi Gorge this is the setting for the most awesome grade 5 white water rafting in the world. There is something here for everyone from the more sedate canoe trips, Flight Of Angels or Sunset Cruises to one of the highest commercial Bungee Jumps in the world! After your adrenaline has been spent we head into Botswana.

(June 12-June 13)Days 33 - 34 Although only a short drive away, once in Botswana you will easily notice quite a contrast in the terrain and vegetation from what we have seen so far in this Kenya to South Africa trip. The arid Kalahari with it's expansive freedom, night sky ablaze with shooting stars and the warm glow of our campfire make it an unforgettable camping experience. We spend the first night in Chobe National Park famous for its hordes of elephants as well as an abundance of other wildlife. There is the opportunity to take a cruise on the Chobe River - a less intrusive way to view the amazing wildlife in this park.

(june 14-15)Days 35 - 36 We then organise our 2 day trip into the Okavango Delta (optional). You have the chance to go on a Mokoro (dug out canoe) and explore the extensive waterways of this unique desert wetland. You will also have the opportunity to take several game walks in this huge oasis. Elephant, crocodile and hippo are nearly always seen. The Okavango Delta is the worlds largest inland water way and its serenity and quietness seems to have a calming effect on those that experience it.

(june 16-june 18)Days 37 - 39 Heading west we travel on to Namibia and continue north-west toward Etosha National Park, recognised as one of the worlds greatest wildlife viewing areas. We game watch by night at one of the floodlit watering holes, hoping to see some of the wide variety of wildlife that inhabits this amazing park.

(June 19-June 23)Days 40 - 44 From Etosha we visit a local Cheetah park before continuing on to the Brandenberg Mountains in Demaraland and the Skeleton Coast. We then visit either the stunning Spitzkoppe Rock formations or the world famous Cape Cross Seal Colony and the sight of thousands of these mammals as well as their accompanying pungent odour is remembered by all! For the next three days we are based in Swakopmund. From here there are a variety of activities and excursions. You can spend a day deep sea fishing for shark and other game fish or head out to the desert and try quad biking and dune sledding. You can also go horse riding or take a flight over the desert and it's dramatic coastline. In Swakopmund itself you can walk along miles of deserted beaches, visit the museum or relax in a café.

(June 24-June 28)Days 45 - 49 A one day drive takes us to the Namib-Naukluft Park, a vast expanse of desert which contains some of the highest sand dunes in the world. At Sossusvlei we stop and explore the area and the dunes. Continuing South we enter the semi desert, and wide open countryside of cattle ranching, until we arrive at one of Africa's most sensational natural features, Fish River Canyon. We camp next to this massive gorge, where you can soak up the sun and fabulous scenery.

(June 29-July 2)Days 50 - 54 A couple of hours drive away we cross the Orange River, a rich source of diamonds, and into South Africa. We travel south through the Cederburg Wilderness area to Stellenbosch visiting one of the historical Cape Wineries before arriving at the vibrant, cosmopolitan city of Cape Town. Here, we stay at a comfortable backpacker's lodge.

Flight from Cape Town, S. Africa to Mumbai, India July 8th

1/3 year update: 2008

2008-04-30T12:11:00.000-07:00

I sit here in my hostel in Brosov, Transilvania, Romania, asking myself what am I doing and how I arrived? Mr. Vlad the Impaler, Dracula himself, is not helping me answer this question. I am back on the backpacker circuit and feeling energized and overwhelmed at the same time.But before I can begin to tell you why I'm in Romania, I must back up a few steps.

Immediately following my departure from Bariloche, Argentina where I had found a home and made a family...I met my real family, in Brazil. Mom and Dad visited for a month, conveniently during carnaval. They said they didn't know. I say, of course they did when not even a half hour after stepping off the plane we were in the crowded streets of Manaus, beer in hand.

The Amazon was incredible with 2 amazing weeks full of adventure, pouring down rain, brilliantly colored birds and sunsets, hammocks galore, camping under the canopy, natural remedies, cruelly delicious fruits, private boat trips with personal cooks. I even swam in the Rios Amazonas, which, as a person ridiculously afraid of fish, was a huge feat to be in the water where we caught piranhas and caught and released caimen!! I was pretty proud of myself and was thinking that a big incentive for scaring myself so much, was to tell Brain Chew about it later! So there Brian, I swam with caimen :)

My parents definitely know how to do things right and I had no problem, stepping back and having someone make decisions (and swipe the card :)! More than anything though, it was really great to see them and share travel stories and tactics. It took us two weeks of chattering like monkeys in the jungle before we could quiet down and relax on the beaches in the north. We elected Jericoacoara, a village of three sand-made streets to hang our hammocks for a while. Although though I could semi get by understanding Portuguese, it was a relieve when the owner of our pousada was Argentine so I could ask where to buy the best caipirinha.

The airport departure was not as dramatic as in Mexico, as we bid farewell again for another few months, and we hopped back up to the northern hemisphere.

Because my "job" in Switzerland fell through, I still had a ticket leaving me in London and a few awesome ladies wanting to catch up in Europe. Natasha and her generous family, welcomed me into their home in London for a ridiculously long time while I awaited the return of my passport. I had to send it into the embassy to have more pages added! After 2+ weeks, my time was up and I headed to warmer climates and to a place where I had left my heart: Espana!

Originally, I had planned on working on another farm in Spain to try and save some dinero because Europe and the disgusting dollar is killing me. Of course we all know how much Spain loves to party and with my expert timing, I arrived during Semana Santa, one of the largest all year. NO ONE wanted to work, including the farms I was calling. After 60+ phone calls, I decided that I too would celebrate and stop worrying that instead of saving $$, I was now spending double. (I met some awesome people though and in a period of 2 weeks, was invited to sleep on 3 couches, Gracias a todos!!) The parades were impressive with drums and trumpets blasting through the streets all day and night and costumes that were alarming. (Let's just say that the KKK uniform was inspired by the Semana Santa processionals.)

I was pretty proud of myself for keeping the promise that I had made to return to Spain as soon as possible. I followed closely the same route that I had showed Mom exactly 3 years ago. My heart swells when I think of how much Spain feels like home to me.

3 nights in Frankfurt, Germany to catch up with Paige, a friend from high school that I hadn't scene in 6 years. We're on the same continent? Of course we will catch up there! We weren't successful meeting up in the states, but somehow schnitzel and apelwein just bring people together!

Another week with the Lovely Leann and Brooke in Budapest. There was a lot of Italian food, Belguim Beer, SF catch-up, and one dreadful but adventurous Hungarian meal out. A few weeks later, and stomachs are in check, but just! Miss you already girls. Thanks making me feel like a human and not a backpacker!

Romania...well mostly Transylvania, where I put in my fangs and sunk my teeth in (sorry, had to.) It was the most surprising beautiful place, where strangers give you rides and grandpas knock the hats off the young boys bothering young girls in the train station at 5AM. Multzumesc old Man!

And now Greece, where I sit and write this email. Its always been a special place for me where the Gods make their presence felt and my brother does too. Today, sitting on a hill watching the sun set over the Acropolis, I couldn't shake the feeling that he was with me. Especially with the upcoming BDay looming and the butterflies lingering :)

Jess (college roommie and soul partner) just left after more than a week of spilling our guts. Sometimes it takes a best friend to make you blurt out all of the emotions that you didn't even know you were storing. It's been a challenge not being able to be emotionally close to the new people Ive met. Thank God I spewed out everything in 10 days with JB and I could spew for another lifetime! Let's all congratulate Jess for getting into her Green MBA program! woo hoo

I just spent the last few days in Napflio where everything was booked because of Greece's Easter. (Jess and I saw the most beautiful ceremonies, including one where the entire town of Pyrgos, Thira was lit on fire). All accommodation was booked but someone who reminded me so much of my Grandpa, invited me to sleep on the couch of his hotel. Efharisto!!! I happily accepted and spent the last two days in the sun on the rocky beaches.

This has been the most scattered, written over a period of 3 months however, everyone has been anxious for SOME kind of update. With my African tour coming up, computer time will be scarce so Im taking advantage of Athens late night cafes!

Signing out.

2008-02-04T13:43:00.000-08:00

This was written a few weeks ago. Im in the Amazon right now where there are no telelphones but a few computers. Needless to say, this is out of date but I will post some new and exciting news about jungle adventures, Brazils carnaval and the total locura of traveling with my parents....as soon as Im in London in a couple of weeks.

---------
Last new years, when Phil hit me in the face with a monster snowball,
leaving me with a mild concussion and a knot the size of a tennis ball on my
forehead, I thought to myself: this is going to be an interesting year! I
had no idea what I was in for....

Christmas was lovely with dancing and champagne and a lot of friends in good
spirits. Giselle (the girl I'm living with) and I made over 40 empenadas de
carne for the party and we had a countdown on the 24th like it was New
Years. We woke up late the 25th returning home from dancing after the sun
rose and spent the day at the beach...it is after all summer here.

And then my luck started to slide downhill.....

For the past 2 weeks, Ive been out of contact with most everyone having
spent New Years in Buenos Aires with the friends and family of the kids I'm
living with, then off to the campo to enjoy the Doma, an Argentine rodeo,
and the river to eat lots of fish. After a week meeting ALL of the family,
grandparents on both sides, tios, primos, y amigos we went far south into
Patagonia to enjoy the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier and trekking around
Fitz Roy.

Sounds pretty enchanting doesn't it? Lets just back up a few steps then and
lll tell you what Actually happened.

On the 30th, we caught a bus to BA to start the journey. The time had
changed an hour the day before. Being fully prepared, we set the clocks
forward and were ready and on time at the bus terminal. The bus left a half
hour early. When EVER do buses leave a half hour early? The correct answer,
when they contact all but three clients to let them know. So we climbed up
into another micro a few hours later to be the only 3 passengers. It was
quite luxurious actually but half way through the 20hr bus ride we had to
switch to a bus more occupied with travelers. No big deal except when we
switched buses, the driver was adamant about us climbing into the bus
quickly as to not delay the trip. Now normally, I would have waited to make
sure that my backpack was safely stowed under the bus but this time,
traveling with fellow Argentines and seeing that the chaufer was adding the
luggage while hurrying us into the bus, I climbed in. Hernan also tried to
persuade the driver to wait a minute til everything was loaded but climbed
in after the driver made a fuss. We´re pretty sure that it was the chaufer
that stole my backpack....

All was lost. I am a turtle without my shell. We arrived on New Years Eve
and all I had was the clothes on my back. Luckily I was carrying my
documents and camera with me but I had to borrow underwear from their mother
before I even met her!! Being over 42 degrees (around 100) and humid, I had
to set out to buy clothes for New Years Eve, a tooth brush, and a little
mascara because you have to look good in BA on NYs. The only time I cried
was when I was in the dressing room 3 days later. We were going to the beach
and I had to buy another swim suit but they only wear thongs here. When I
turned around in the mirror and saw what the rest of the people on the beach
would see, I burst into tears!! The bus company is going to reimburse me 600
pesos, about 200 u$s...about 1/2 the value of the empty backpack. At the
beginning of my trip, when a couple of sweaters and my jacket were stolen, I
was a wreck, considering coming home even. This puts it a little more into
perspective....Ill just have to cut my trip a few months short with the
money that Ill spend rebuilding my little home that was my backpack!!

After that fiasco, I really was able to celebrate New Years with the entire
freaking city lit up with illegal fireworks and mini glowing air balloons.
It was hands down the most magical sight Ive ever scene :)

The next night, in a bar, I slammed my finger in the bathroom door when
someone was about to walk in on me. I crushed the bone and bled on the only
skirt that I know own.

A few days later I was in Diamante, a rural town with plumerias and hibiscus
and gauchos and a river full of delicious, menacing fish. I could see myself
living there for sure, in a strange way it reminded me of Hawaii. With the
humidity, we swam it the tiny part of the river that was parted off with a
net to keep out the piranha like fish. Of course, my finger was raised above
my head for the entire time, not wanting any scary bacteria to enter the
wound. Instead, a scary fungus entered something else and now I have a
vaginal infection called Hongos, or mushrooms. Yes, I realize this is too
much information but its necessary for you to realize actually how destroyed
my body actually is!

In a rush, we then found ourselves in the far south of Patagonia to witness
stunning beauty and shocking wind. I think that the Glaciar Perito Moreno
might be the prettiest natural sight Ive ever scene. We went 2 days in a row
to watch blocks of ice 40 meters high (16 floors) crash into the water.
Check out the photos...

In El Chalten, we took advantage of the 2 days of sun and did an exorbitant
amount of trekking. We apparently had great luck (the first time this year)
when we were able to see the peak of Fitz Roy. Normally there is a permanent
cloud layer. We stayed in a hostel that had a reputation for bed bugs but
because my lovely silk sleep sack was stolen, I immediately fell into a deep
slumber without protection. Now because the rash that covers my entire body
arrived 2 days later, the doctor at the hospital yesterday told me that he
doesn't think it was in fact bugs. Maybe I was allergic to one bug, maybe
some plant in the forest or maybe it was the fresh mtn. water that I was
drinking from the stream. All I know was that I was living under the
illusion that I was not allergic to anything is this world and had a rude
awakening. Literally in the middle of the night.

So now I find myself back in lovely Bariloche, too swollen to try on the
clothes that I don't have, taking 5 pills per day and typing quite strangely
because I cant use my pointer finger!!

However, I don't think I could be in better spirits. With each lightening
bolt of bad luck, the situation just becomes more and more hilarious and
even if I have hit rock bottom, its not so bad because I have great friends
taking care of me!

Even though I will be leaving a big chunk of my heart here in Bariloche, I
am so excited that in a weeks time, I will find myself in the heart of the
Amazon with my parents....just in time to add more bug bites to the
collection!

Argentina, vol. I

2007-11-13T08:11:00.000-08:00

I´m writing this in a restaurant overlooking Rio de la Plata in Colonia, Uruguay. I much rather prefer to jot some things down in a cafe or restaurant before dwindling time at an internet cafe. Besides the view of the Atlantic y the sailboats passing this colonial town is a little more inspiring than staring at a compu screen! I haven´t been able to sit down and do this in the last 2 months because Ive been fortunate enough to have some really amazing travel partners where the conversation was much more entertaining than sitting silent and writing. The thing about traveling alone, for me, is that I rarely am. Ive really been enjoying the past week or so alone giving the space to sort out my thoughts!

There are 2 reasons why I'm in Uruguay.

The 1st is that I'm not going to Switzerland where for the past few years, I had arranged to work at a youth hostel. This was the youth hostel I had become enamoured with over Christmas when I was still lost in Europe. The job fell through at the last minute. So while I was prepared to finish my last 6 weeks on this continent in Brazil, I was not prepared mentally to skip the Switzerland leg and head straight to Africa. The world was at my door and I knew where I wanted to go (everywhere) but was lost for which direction to go. I wrote a group of confidants, called my parents more times in one week than in my entire trip, and of course decided to do what the majority advised to the contrary.

Which brings me the 2nd reason why I'm in Uruguay: Ive decided to stay in Argentina! My 90 days in Argentina have almost run out-They´re up officially on my Dad´s 60th birthday. HAPPY BIRTHDAY POPS! I would have flown to Hawaii to get the exit stamp but the ferry to Uruguay was a little less expensive! So in Bariloche, Argentina I will continue to stay which is ironic because Ive compared it to Switzerland so many times saying that it was possibly more beautiful, with chocolate that dreams are made from, cheaper everything (including gorgeous wines from Mendoza) and the ultimate perk: I speak castellano!

The Argentine accent is very unique and even though the majority of tourists here in Colonia are Argentine, I still feel like a complete poser speaking Argentine castellano with a hint of an Andalusian accent and an obvious Californian one. The waitress must think I'm crazy. My newest goal has been to strike up more conversation to practice and the waitress has been my first victim. We've been comparing the differences of waitressing in Colonia and SF and how irritating tourists are. She was the one who mentioned they tip horribly so I guess Ill have to compensate!

My trip has been funded with these tips!

So what have I been doing the past few months in Argentina? After making my way through a boarder crossing that was on no maps, nearly skipping across the bridge where no one was in sight for 3km, where the people were so friendly because I was visibly giddy to be back in Argentina and they probably doubted my sanity, I was in No Where, AR. But then half a day of travel later, I was in the Jujuy region. Lots of beautiful rocks in this region, rocks that liked to be climbed.

Ive slowly been making my way down doing some fairly normal things (sitting around hostel bars sharing stories and pasta) and some equally bizarre things (dancing to traditional folkloric music next to a river at 4am). Much was shared with Natasha from London and our sidekick Catherine from Montreal. I can remember laughing so hard that my stomach hurt to the point that I had to stop in the middle of the street, crossing sides because Natasha was torturing me with laughter. I cannot remember what was so funny...There was a bike tour in Mendoza with a little too much wine and much too much singing, a roadtrip with Alejandro (BA) and Andres (Ascuncion) through the breaktaking Cafayate region with a little bit of hitchhiking and of course, the unforgettable River vs. Boca match that was so mindblowing, Ill never have to see another futbol game because it couldnt compare!

This leaves me in Bariloche where I left 3 times but keep finding myself on another 19hr bus ride to return. You would too though, the buses here serve champagne! My days are slow and mellow: skiing when there was snow, climbing hills instead of mountains because there still is too much snow (¨We´re in the Alps!! oops I mean the Andes.¨), counting over 60 condors so far, lots of ice cream, more chocolate, walks along the lake and stargazing at night although Orion is the only thing I recognize. I moved in with Hernan and his sister Giselle because it just made sense; I was spending more time there than anywhere else. Although Hernan speaks english, hes been really patient speaking only castellano with me and correcting my mistakes. Ive become a regular at three places: El Jarro, the local peña with live music, a room full of smoke and full of many MANY drunk men singing folkloric songs. There usually seems to be a request for Öjos del Cielo¨quickly after I arrive. Everyone thinks they know my name at Boliche de Albertos Pasta where even the chef comes out to give ¨Christina¨ a kiss! An lastly, La Brasa, a take away parilla where unfortunately my quest to eat zero red meat has turned into more of a blood bath. I was excited to get away so that I might eat something different but of course, here I am at lunch where the only thing that sits on my plate is a chorizo and a sprig of something green. There´s no avoiding it, its turned into a love affair and you dont choose who you love and apparantly I love Argentina steak!

I leave you now on my 5 month anniversay of being out of the country...Ciao y un beso

´´¿Si no tome vino, por que ha vino?´´

2007-08-26T15:49:00.000-07:00

First of all in an update of status, neither the earthquake in Peru nor the riots in the Bolivian representatives office has affected me. My stories are a little less picante!

Ive fallen in love with Bolivia. After a whirlwind of touring from Buenos Aires to Lima, I decided I needed to hang out in one place for a while. Sucre, in the heart of Bolivia, a colonial town full of Bougainvillea, salteñas, spanish lessons and warmth (finally) was the place. For the first week, my hostal was 2 kilometers from the center so each day I had to walk past the street mercado where dump trucks would unload their enormous piles of oranges onto the streets. After my 5th day walking past the fruit that was on the same dirt that trucks and dogs traversed did I finally succumb and buy half a kilo.

Of course, this is the heart of Bolivia so there couldn't be a few days without protest and demonstration. The judiciary capital is in Sucre while the de facto capital is in La Paz. Sucre didn't want the capital to move to their city and fill it more than it was already so they closed shop. The next day, they had a demonstration that looked more like a carnival with protesters tying themselves to trees. The only ways I and my new South American travel buddy, Natasha, were affected is that we couldn't buy chocolate and we had to go look at dinosaur tracks instead of trekking!

Onto Potosi and the silver mine tours where we adorned ourselves in outfits more suited for a ghostbusters film than a mine. I don´t know how many meters we descended (over 25 I'm sure) but I'm so glad I had a friend to hold my hand. It was freaking scary down there! After walking for 10 seconds we were in complete darkness and the only thing I could think of was how stupid we were for climbing into a mountain weeks after a 7.9 earthquake! We ate coca leaves, payed homage to the owner of the mountain, Tio, who looked like a replica of the devil, drank 96% alcohol with the miners (yeah yikes) and overcame extreme dizziness due to the lack of oxygen. I sincerely don't know how the mines do it but I do not envy their lifestyles and lack of sunlight.

I'm now writing from Tarija which has stolen my heart! Because I am the only gringa here, people began to recognize me as I wondered around. Never have I met friendlier people. Every time I sat down, someone would join me on the bench or at my table to ask me what the heck I'm doing alone. I was befriended by 3 Chapacos who took turns taking me out with their friends and to meals. Ive spend the majority of my time here with Val and Oscar who've taken me rowing on a lake, to eat all the street food I would have been to timid to try otherwise, and on buses full of indigenous people to tiny pueblos. I was even invited to Sunday dinner at Oscar´s house with his entire family as the first foreign visitor. As soon as I told his sister that the food was better than in a restaurant, they were taking photos of the gringa at their table. It was a truly amazing experience! My spanish is finally taking shape...

I find it ironic that Ive befriended maybe the only 3 people on the continent that don't drink. The only reason this is funny is because Tarija is like the Napa of Bolivia and the reason I came. The leader of my wine tour (where I was the only person) was Mormon so she didn't have a drop. Not even after she made me take part in the Tradicion del Valle d Vino: La Ceremonia del destape de la dama Juana. After I had to make a wish for myself, my friends and the country and taking a sip of wine after every wish, I had to drink wine out of a 2 meter long tube. Think beer bong but twice as long and full of wine, at 10 in the morning! I was offered a job serving wine at the upcoming wine festival in Tarija but alas, I will be in Mendoza then, trying their wine.

Yes Bolivia and especially Tarija, I will miss you dearly!!

Her name was Lola!

2007-08-01T08:50:00.000-07:00

There is no other way to put is except that I am officially living my dream! There have already been some really high highs and low lows but I think that's what I was craving. Everything to the extreme. I was fortunate to be able to have 2 of my best friends with me to share my tumultuous start. From eating guinea pig to escaping bed bugs, from climbing mountains and chasing buses, there are no 2 other people I would have chosen to share the first moments of this adventure with. If funny how much more you can love someone after freezing your ass off with them, and snuggling! (winter at 4000 meteres is nothing to joke about, especially w/o heaters, thats why we have llamas)

I must be sentimental because only yesterday, Kristen flew home and the week before that, Tim. I can honestly say I believed I was the happiest person alive when Tim and I were dancing on the stage and across the dance floor, Kristen and Lynne were on the bar! Of course we saw them, how could we not, but waving and doing the white mans point was still necessary. All of this dancing is what seriously altered the contents of my backpack (someone else liked my purple jacket too). After some donations and replacement wool shopping (gotta have that baby Alpaca) I think I'm back on track. I just pray that warm weather is close.

Tim and I met up in Argentina to overlap the last month in his 10m legacy and the the first month of mine. Didnt recognize him at first with the beard. A week and half course was given on the art of the Argentine alfajore, beer, steak, wine and accent. I've begun a love affair with empenadas! Who new? The biggest challenge I had in Buenos Aires was my complete lack on sense of direction. Im blaming it on the southern hemisphere but really, never has my intuition led me so astray!

On to Bolivia where we did a 4 day jeep trek through the Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat. 2 flat tires, a tamale made of llama, altitute sickness cured with mate de coca (coca tea leaves), lakes, villages, llamas, volcanoes, geysers, dulce de leche and beds made of salt later we arrived at the salt flats. Breathtaking white flatness until the earth met the sky. Crazy beautiful.

Tim and I also did a 3 day trek in the northern part of Bolivia, starting in the mountains and ending in the jungle. Being my first overnight hike, I didnt want Tim to know how nervous I really was but he was amazing and actually let me believe I was a bad-ass!

Picking up Kristen in Lima proved to be fairly difficult with buses delayed because of strikes around the country. Luckily we flew instead of hopping on a 20hr bus after getting off a 30hr bus. AND while on the plane a new obsession was born when they passed out Princessa chocolates. Damn I love was Nestle has done for Latin American chocolate! yum

Cusco was amazing with Inca ruins, 3 best friends (Lynne joined the mix living in Cusco as a guide), a great hostel overlooking the plaza and a nightlife we nearly died for (there is never such a thing as too much dancing, but wow!). It was no surprise we stayed for a week. Look at the pics of Machu Picchu (Kristen and I climbed Huaynu Picchu, the mountain in back) and the Inca town of Ollantatamba that I fell in love with. In Ollanta, there was a fermented corn drink called chicha de maiz, that if served was signaled by a broom covered in red cloth outside the restaurant or house. Of course we tried it and of course we were silly after all having shared what must have been a liter glass!

Tim flew home to move to SF, leaving Kristen and I up to our own devices and took off to Lake Titicaca. We did the 17km walk from Copacabana to Yampupata and then rowboat to Isla del Sol. Yeah, we might have started the walk a little late but it was a gorgeous one along the coast. We arrived in Yampupata ready to hire someone to row us to the island. The only person to step up was a 70+ yr old man who when asked, said it would take an hour to get there. An hour in, we were barely half way there and the sun was setting over the island. Also the wind was pretty strong and everytime he paused I thought it was due to a heart attack. I was sure we were going to crash into the rocks. I asked the man if I could help and with a huge smile, he said "si, si , si!" Holy crap! I know I used to row but this was really difficult, immediately blisters formed and my back was sore for a couple of days but the lake was gorgeous and we made it (barely) before dark. Thank god he let me take starboard though or we all would have died!

Back in Peru, Kristen and I went to Canyon del Colca to see the condors. After being in a bus full of French girl scouts (no, not as sexy as it sounds) who bought flutes of all things, we were so happy that we were actually able to see the condors! They were huge, the canyon insane, the photos wont do it justice.

IN Arequipa, we ate the best cebiche Ive ever had. We tried to replicate it in Lima but everything is a little worse in Lima. That is where I am now, planning my next course of action while Amanda lets me crash in her spare room. I guess that is one thing better here: really HOT showers! I was taken by Bolivia and it's fairly inexpensive so I think I'll head there next and take some spanish and cooking lessons. Ill send you a recipe Bruce!

To the 2 best travel partners:
Kristen-thanks for being stubbornly kick-ass even though you were so sick
Tim-thanks for being so wonderful and patient as I'm beginning this trip
Love you both

Love you all!

Itinerary

2007-05-23T17:11:00.000-07:00

Flying by the seat of my pants, the details of my trip are yet to be determined! I'm going until the money runs out and hopefully that lasts 3 years. There are a few places I must be during certain times of the year. My itinerary is based around those rare requirements (i.e. Christmas in Switzerland and Trekking Nepal in November) and goes as follows:

LA--Puerto Vallarta-Buenos Aires, Argentina, overland Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil-Gryon, Switzerland working at the Chalet Martin youth hostel for at least 6m, undecided Europe with parents--Nairobi, Kenya overland Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa--India--Nepal--China--Bangkok, Thailand (fly to Philippines) overland Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia--Australia (working for several months)--New Zealand--South Pacific--Kailua, Hawaii, USA

How does one pack for 3 years? I'm not sure but this is what I'm bringing:
2 long sleeve shirts
3 tank tops
1 pair of pants/shorts
1 pair of jeans
2 skirts
1 sarong
1 dress
3 pair of socks
5 pair of undies
1 bra
1 sports bra
1 waterproof jacket
1 silk sleepsack
1 hat
1 pair of flip flops
1 pair of hiking shoes
1 pair of chacos
first aid kit
a plethora of anti- pills
camara
journal
book (to be determined--love to hear any suggestions for a good book while traveling!)