Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Argentina, vol. I

I´m writing this in a restaurant overlooking Rio de la Plata in Colonia, Uruguay. I much rather prefer to jot some things down in a cafe or restaurant before dwindling time at an internet cafe. Besides the view of the Atlantic y the sailboats passing this colonial town is a little more inspiring than staring at a compu screen! I haven´t been able to sit down and do this in the last 2 months because Ive been fortunate enough to have some really amazing travel partners where the conversation was much more entertaining than sitting silent and writing. The thing about traveling alone, for me, is that I rarely am. Ive really been enjoying the past week or so alone giving the space to sort out my thoughts!

There are 2 reasons why I'm in Uruguay.

The 1st is that I'm not going to Switzerland where for the past few years, I had arranged to work at a youth hostel. This was the youth hostel I had become enamoured with over Christmas when I was still lost in Europe. The job fell through at the last minute. So while I was prepared to finish my last 6 weeks on this continent in Brazil, I was not prepared mentally to skip the Switzerland leg and head straight to Africa. The world was at my door and I knew where I wanted to go (everywhere) but was lost for which direction to go. I wrote a group of confidants, called my parents more times in one week than in my entire trip, and of course decided to do what the majority advised to the contrary.

Which brings me the 2nd reason why I'm in Uruguay: Ive decided to stay in Argentina! My 90 days in Argentina have almost run out-They´re up officially on my Dad´s 60th birthday. HAPPY BIRTHDAY POPS! I would have flown to Hawaii to get the exit stamp but the ferry to Uruguay was a little less expensive! So in Bariloche, Argentina I will continue to stay which is ironic because Ive compared it to Switzerland so many times saying that it was possibly more beautiful, with chocolate that dreams are made from, cheaper everything (including gorgeous wines from Mendoza) and the ultimate perk: I speak castellano!


The Argentine accent is very unique and even though the majority of tourists here in Colonia are Argentine, I still feel like a complete poser speaking Argentine castellano with a hint of an Andalusian accent and an obvious Californian one. The waitress must think I'm crazy. My newest goal has been to strike up more conversation to practice and the waitress has been my first victim. We've been comparing the differences of waitressing in Colonia and SF and how irritating tourists are. She was the one who mentioned they tip horribly so I guess Ill have to compensate!
My trip has been funded with these tips!

So what have I been doing the past few months in Argentina? After making my way through a boarder crossing that was on no maps, nearly skipping across the bridge where no one was in sight for 3km, where the people were so friendly because I was visibly giddy to be back in Argentina and they probably doubted my sanity, I was in No Where, AR. But then half a day of travel later, I was in the Jujuy region. Lots of beautiful rocks in this region, rocks that liked to be climbed.

Ive slowly been making my way down doing some fairly normal things (sitting around hostel bars sharing stories and pasta) and some equally bizarre things (dancing to traditional folkloric music next to a river at 4am). Much was shared with Natasha from London and our sidekick Catherine from Montreal. I can remember laughing so hard that my stomach hurt to the point that I had to stop in the middle of the street, crossing sides because Natasha was torturing me with laughter. I cannot remember what was so funny...There was a bike tour in Mendoza with a little too much wine and much too much singing, a roadtrip with Alejandro (BA) and Andres (Ascuncion) through the breaktaking Cafayate region with a little bit of hitchhiking and of course, the unforgettable River vs. Boca match that was so mindblowing, Ill never have to see another futbol game because it couldnt compare!

This leaves me in Bariloche where I left 3 times but keep finding myself on another 19hr bus ride to return. You would too though, the buses here serve champagne! My days are slow and mellow: skiing when there was snow, climbing hills instead of mountains because there still is too much snow (¨We´re in the Alps!! oops I mean the Andes.¨), counting over 60 condors so far, lots of ice cream, more chocolate, walks along the lake and stargazing at night although Orion is the only thing I recognize. I moved in with Hernan and his sister Giselle because it just made sense; I was spending more time there than anywhere else. Although Hernan speaks english, hes been really patient speaking only castellano with me and correcting my mistakes. Ive become a regular at three places: El Jarro, the local peña with live music, a room full of smoke and full of many MANY drunk men singing folkloric songs. There usually seems to be a request for Öjos del Cielo¨quickly after I arrive. Everyone thinks they know my name at Boliche de Albertos Pasta where even the chef comes out to give ¨Christina¨ a kiss! An lastly, La Brasa, a take away parilla where unfortunately my quest to eat zero red meat has turned into more of a blood bath. I was excited to get away so that I might eat something different but of course, here I am at lunch where the only thing that sits on my plate is a chorizo and a sprig of something green. There´s no avoiding it, its turned into a love affair and you dont choose who you love and apparantly I love Argentina steak!

I leave you now on my 5 month anniversay of being out of the country...Ciao y un beso

Sunday, August 26, 2007

´´¿Si no tome vino, por que ha vino?´´

First of all in an update of status, neither the earthquake in Peru nor the riots in the Bolivian representatives office has affected me. My stories are a little less picante!

Ive fallen in love with Bolivia. After a whirlwind of touring from Buenos Aires to Lima, I decided I needed to hang out in one place for a while. Sucre, in the heart of Bolivia, a colonial town full of Bougainvillea, salteñas, spanish lessons and warmth (finally) was the place. For the first week, my hostal was 2 kilometers from the center so each day I had to walk past the street mercado where dump trucks would unload their enormous piles of oranges onto the streets. After my 5th day walking past the fruit that was on the same dirt that trucks and dogs traversed did I finally succumb and buy half a kilo.

Of course, this is the heart of Bolivia so there couldn't be a few days without protest and demonstration. The judiciary capital is in Sucre while the de facto capital is in La Paz. Sucre didn't want the capital to move to their city and fill it more than it was already so they closed shop. The next day, they had a demonstration that looked more like a carnival with protesters tying themselves to trees. The only ways I and my new South American travel buddy, Natasha, were affected is that we couldn't buy chocolate and we had to go look at dinosaur tracks instead of trekking!

Onto Potosi and the silver mine tours where we adorned ourselves in outfits more suited for a ghostbusters film than a mine. I don´t know how many meters we descended (over 25 I'm sure) but I'm so glad I had a friend to hold my hand. It was freaking scary down there! After walking for 10 seconds we were in complete darkness and the only thing I could think of was how stupid we were for climbing into a mountain weeks after a 7.9 earthquake! We ate coca leaves, payed homage to the owner of the mountain, Tio, who looked like a replica of the devil, drank 96% alcohol with the miners (yeah yikes) and overcame extreme dizziness due to the lack of oxygen. I sincerely don't know how the mines do it but I do not envy their lifestyles and lack of sunlight.

I'm now writing from Tarija which has stolen my heart! Because I am the only gringa here, people began to recognize me as I wondered around. Never have I met friendlier people. Every time I sat down, someone would join me on the bench or at my table to ask me what the heck I'm doing alone. I was befriended by 3 Chapacos who took turns taking me out with their friends and to meals. Ive spend the majority of my time here with Val and Oscar who've taken me rowing on a lake, to eat all the street food I would have been to timid to try otherwise, and on buses full of indigenous people to tiny pueblos. I was even invited to Sunday dinner at Oscar´s house with his entire family as the first foreign visitor. As soon as I told his sister that the food was better than in a restaurant, they were taking photos of the gringa at their table. It was a truly amazing experience! My spanish is finally taking shape...

I find it ironic that Ive befriended maybe the only 3 people on the continent that don't drink. The only reason this is funny is because Tarija is like the Napa of Bolivia and the reason I came. The leader of my wine tour (where I was the only person) was Mormon so she didn't have a drop. Not even after she made me take part in the Tradicion del Valle d Vino: La Ceremonia del destape de la dama Juana. After I had to make a wish for myself, my friends and the country and taking a sip of wine after every wish, I had to drink wine out of a 2 meter long tube. Think beer bong but twice as long and full of wine, at 10 in the morning! I was offered a job serving wine at the upcoming wine festival in Tarija but alas, I will be in Mendoza then, trying their wine.

Yes Bolivia and especially Tarija, I will miss you dearly!!

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Her name was Lola!

There is no other way to put is except that I am officially living my dream! There have already been some really high highs and low lows but I think that's what I was craving. Everything to the extreme. I was fortunate to be able to have 2 of my best friends with me to share my tumultuous start. From eating guinea pig to escaping bed bugs, from climbing mountains and chasing buses, there are no 2 other people I would have chosen to share the first moments of this adventure with. If funny how much more you can love someone after freezing your ass off with them, and snuggling! (winter at 4000 meteres is nothing to joke about, especially w/o heaters, thats why we have llamas)

I must be sentimental because only yesterday, Kristen flew home and the week before that, Tim. I can honestly say I believed I was the happiest person alive when Tim and I were dancing on the stage and across the dance floor, Kristen and Lynne were on the bar! Of course we saw them, how could we not, but waving and doing the white mans point was still necessary. All of this dancing is what seriously altered the contents of my backpack (someone else liked my purple jacket too). After some donations and replacement wool shopping (gotta have that baby Alpaca) I think I'm back on track. I just pray that warm weather is close.

Tim and I met up in Argentina to overlap the last month in his 10m legacy and the the first month of mine. Didnt recognize him at first with the beard. A week and half course was given on the art of the Argentine alfajore, beer, steak, wine and accent. I've begun a love affair with empenadas! Who new? The biggest challenge I had in Buenos Aires was my complete lack on sense of direction. Im blaming it on the southern hemisphere but really, never has my intuition led me so astray!

On to Bolivia where we did a 4 day jeep trek through the Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat. 2 flat tires, a tamale made of llama, altitute sickness cured with mate de coca (coca tea leaves), lakes, villages, llamas, volcanoes, geysers, dulce de leche and beds made of salt later we arrived at the salt flats. Breathtaking white flatness until the earth met the sky. Crazy beautiful.

Tim and I also did a 3 day trek in the northern part of Bolivia, starting in the mountains and ending in the jungle. Being my first overnight hike, I didnt want Tim to know how nervous I really was but he was amazing and actually let me believe I was a bad-ass!

Picking up Kristen in Lima proved to be fairly difficult with buses delayed because of strikes around the country. Luckily we flew instead of hopping on a 20hr bus after getting off a 30hr bus. AND while on the plane a new obsession was born when they passed out Princessa chocolates. Damn I love was Nestle has done for Latin American chocolate! yum

Cusco was amazing with Inca ruins, 3 best friends (Lynne joined the mix living in Cusco as a guide), a great hostel overlooking the plaza and a nightlife we nearly died for (there is never such a thing as too much dancing, but wow!). It was no surprise we stayed for a week. Look at the pics of Machu Picchu (Kristen and I climbed Huaynu Picchu, the mountain in back) and the Inca town of Ollantatamba that I fell in love with. In Ollanta, there was a fermented corn drink called chicha de maiz, that if served was signaled by a broom covered in red cloth outside the restaurant or house. Of course we tried it and of course we were silly after all having shared what must have been a liter glass!

Tim flew home to move to SF, leaving Kristen and I up to our own devices and took off to Lake Titicaca. We did the 17km walk from Copacabana to Yampupata and then rowboat to Isla del Sol. Yeah, we might have started the walk a little late but it was a gorgeous one along the coast. We arrived in Yampupata ready to hire someone to row us to the island. The only person to step up was a 70+ yr old man who when asked, said it would take an hour to get there. An hour in, we were barely half way there and the sun was setting over the island. Also the wind was pretty strong and everytime he paused I thought it was due to a heart attack. I was sure we were going to crash into the rocks. I asked the man if I could help and with a huge smile, he said "si, si , si!" Holy crap! I know I used to row but this was really difficult, immediately blisters formed and my back was sore for a couple of days but the lake was gorgeous and we made it (barely) before dark. Thank god he let me take starboard though or we all would have died!

Back in Peru, Kristen and I went to Canyon del Colca to see the condors. After being in a bus full of French girl scouts (no, not as sexy as it sounds) who bought flutes of all things, we were so happy that we were actually able to see the condors! They were huge, the canyon insane, the photos wont do it justice.

IN Arequipa, we ate the best cebiche Ive ever had. We tried to replicate it in Lima but everything is a little worse in Lima. That is where I am now, planning my next course of action while Amanda lets me crash in her spare room. I guess that is one thing better here: really HOT showers! I was taken by Bolivia and it's fairly inexpensive so I think I'll head there next and take some spanish and cooking lessons. Ill send you a recipe Bruce!

To the 2 best travel partners:
Kristen-thanks for being stubbornly kick-ass even though you were so sick
Tim-thanks for being so wonderful and patient as I'm beginning this trip
Love you both

Love you all!

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Itinerary

Flying by the seat of my pants, the details of my trip are yet to be determined! I'm going until the money runs out and hopefully that lasts 3 years. There are a few places I must be during certain times of the year. My itinerary is based around those rare requirements (i.e. Christmas in Switzerland and Trekking Nepal in November) and goes as follows:

LA--Puerto Vallarta-Buenos Aires, Argentina, overland Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil-Gryon, Switzerland working at the Chalet Martin youth hostel for at least 6m, undecided Europe with parents--Nairobi, Kenya overland Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa--India--Nepal--China--Bangkok, Thailand (fly to Philippines) overland Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia--Australia (working for several months)--New Zealand--South Pacific--Kailua, Hawaii, USA

How does one pack for 3 years? I'm not sure but this is what I'm bringing:
2 long sleeve shirts
3 tank tops
1 pair of pants/shorts
1 pair of jeans
2 skirts
1 sarong
1 dress
3 pair of socks
5 pair of undies
1 bra
1 sports bra
1 waterproof jacket
1 silk sleepsack
1 hat
1 pair of flip flops
1 pair of hiking shoes
1 pair of chacos
first aid kit
a plethora of anti- pills
camara
journal
book (to be determined--love to hear any suggestions for a good book while traveling!)